In the middle of the Tohono O’odham Nation Indian community, approximately nine miles south of downtown Tucson, stands a centuries-old Catholic mission that continues to be a sanctuary of faith and service to the local community: San Xavier del Bac.
The mission is also a pilgrimage site for more than 200,000 visitors each year who are drawn to San Xavier del Bac’s historical religious roots as well as its notable 18th-century architecture, traveling from around the world to observe its legacy.
San Xavier del Bac was established in 1692 by Jesuit priest Eusebio Francisco Kino on land that, at the time, belonged to New Spain. It was named for Francis Xavier, a Christian missionary and co-founder of the Society of Jesus (Jesuit order) in Europe. In addition to being a missionary, Father Kino also was a geographer, cartographer and astronomer, and founded a number of Spanish missions in the Sonoran Desert to serve the needs of local communities.
“San Xavier del Bac Mission is often referred to as the White Dove of the Desert, but that description only scratches the surface of the beauty and history that’s inextricably linked to this National Historic Landmark,” says Cindy Aguilar, a spokesperson for Visit Tucson.
According to Father Kino’s diary, construction of the original mission’s foundation, located two miles from the site of the current church, began in 1700, but it was never completed. Father Kino died in 1711 and the first church was built in 1756 and was nearly destroyed around 1770.
Franciscan priests Juan Bautista Velderrain and Juan Bautista Llorenz then started to rebuild what survived of the mission campus between 1783 and 1797, borrowing 7,000 pesos from a local rancher and relying on O’Odham workers to complete the project.
As with many historical properties, the storyline of San Xavier del Bac is marked by colorful highs and lows with periods of great achievement, neglect and conservation. For many years, the mission was abandoned while it was under Mexican jurisdiction because the government forced all Spanish-born priests to vacate the country. Local Native Americans attempted to preserve what they could of the decaying property.
When San Xavier del Bac became part of the U.S. and the new territory of Arizona in 1853, efforts were taken to reestablish the mission. It was reopened in 1859, eventually becoming part of the Diocese of Tucson.
In 1913, the Franciscans returned to San Xavier del Bac and continue to run it today. The campus included a school opened by the Sisters of St. Joseph of Carondelet in 1872, which was overseen by the Franciscan Sisters of Christian Charity for many years. In 2022, the mission school closed due to a decrease in enrollment and staffing.
Despite its popularity as a tourist destination, the mission remains dedicated to its original purpose of serving the religious needs of local residents, operating as a parish for community members to attend mass, weddings, baptisms and other special occasions.
“The benevolent Father Francisco Eusebio Kino founded San Xavier del Bac Mission to serve the Tohono O’odham community, Tucson’s original inhabitants. Visitors can step through its doors to explore the mission’s campus and get a firsthand glimpse into the architectural, historical and religious significance of this place, situated in the Tohono O’odham village of Wa:k,” says Aguilar.
Considered the oldest, intact European structure in Arizona, San Xavier del Bac also is thought to be the best example of Spanish Colonial architecture in the United States. The Moorish-inspired, white stucco exterior is made of low-fire clay, brick, stone and lime mortar and its massive, carved wood doors are made from mesquite.
Inside, the church is filled with original ornamental paintings, statues, frescoes and murals, combing both New Spain and Native American artistic influences. Other elements include theatrical curtain displays, faux doors and marbling.
Over the years, conservation efforts at San Xavier del Bac have included repairing damage to the mission caused by an earthquake, a lightning strike and water seepage. In 1999, an international team of restoration experts cleaned, removed over-painting, and repaired interior painted and sculptured art.
Restorations efforts are ongoing, particularly to the exterior. In April 2022, repairs to the front of the East Tower were completed and new iron gates—inspired by the twisted waist ropes worn by Franciscan priests—are currently being added to the main entrance and candle shop. The mission’s front facade will get a facelift next year and a project focused on the side and back of the East Tower is in the works.
As funding is available, cosmetic and structural upgrades will help keep San Xavier del Bac intact for years. It also will reinforce its place in time as one of the most sacred and cherished landmarks in Arizona.